Buying a new Piano
In general, if you find a reputable piano retailer, buying a new piano should be no problem. The choice of piano is yours, and the amount you pay will in general determine the quality of the instrument. When you find a piano that satisfies your needs, purchase the one you have tried, as another of the same make and model could be quite different in touch and tone.
The usual recommendation when purchasing new, is to spend as much as you can afford. Just because you see what looks similar at £1000 less than your initial find doesn't mean that you are getting the same, cheaper. There are many factors affecting price beginning with the case. A modern (upright) case with no columns and toes under the keyboard is less expensive to produce so those will be cheaper. The traditional case costs more. Wood colours are more expensive as makers use real wood veneers which have to be chosen, matched and affixed which all takes time. Some wood finishes are very expensive and only available to order (like Amboyna for instance on a Steingraeber - a very rare wood). Regular choices other than black are Walnut and Mahogany. A few manufacturers will make a finish to your pattern, using inlays on the top door in a panel, or 'stringing' as a border (a checked pattern running in a line, either alternate dark/light wood in squares, diamonds, greek key - whatever you choose! If you are paying extra, they will do whatever you want.) Some pianos are offered with Cherry or Beech woods and there is the usual final finish of satin or high gloss. Both these are synthetic coatings (polyester) and quite durable if treated with care. Do not use proprietary spray polish on this finish! Just a wipe with a clean damp cloth will collect any dust and not harm the surface.
Other details which add to the quality and cost, are;
Different actions - Makers who produce actions made with better quality parts and hammer felts which affect the playing and sound of a piano i.e. Renner.
Different frame design - for a higher priced range of pianos, sometimes called Conservatoire models. Agraffes used throughout the piano [see the leftmost photo at the top of the "Tuning Reminder" page for agraffes] or on just the bass and tenor sections (some higher end Yamaha uprights - not to be confused with those used or seen on low-end eastern imports which seem to be copies of the better instruments but not necessarily having the same beneficial effect.)
Non-plastic key covers. Sometimes you can specify mammoth ivory or one of the several very good ivory substitutes.
In general, if you find a reputable piano retailer, buying a new piano should be no problem. The choice of piano is yours, and the amount you pay will in general determine the quality of the instrument. When you find a piano that satisfies your needs, purchase the one you have tried, as another of the same make and model could be quite different in touch and tone.
The usual recommendation when purchasing new, is to spend as much as you can afford. Just because you see what looks similar at £1000 less than your initial find doesn't mean that you are getting the same, cheaper. There are many factors affecting price beginning with the case. A modern (upright) case with no columns and toes under the keyboard is less expensive to produce so those will be cheaper. The traditional case costs more. Wood colours are more expensive as makers use real wood veneers which have to be chosen, matched and affixed which all takes time. Some wood finishes are very expensive and only available to order (like Amboyna for instance on a Steingraeber - a very rare wood). Regular choices other than black are Walnut and Mahogany. A few manufacturers will make a finish to your pattern, using inlays on the top door in a panel, or 'stringing' as a border (a checked pattern running in a line, either alternate dark/light wood in squares, diamonds, greek key - whatever you choose! If you are paying extra, they will do whatever you want.) Some pianos are offered with Cherry or Beech woods and there is the usual final finish of satin or high gloss. Both these are synthetic coatings (polyester) and quite durable if treated with care. Do not use proprietary spray polish on this finish! Just a wipe with a clean damp cloth will collect any dust and not harm the surface.
Other details which add to the quality and cost, are;
Different actions - Makers who produce actions made with better quality parts and hammer felts which affect the playing and sound of a piano i.e. Renner.
Different frame design - for a higher priced range of pianos, sometimes called Conservatoire models. Agraffes used throughout the piano [see the leftmost photo at the top of the "Tuning Reminder" page for agraffes] or on just the bass and tenor sections (some higher end Yamaha uprights - not to be confused with those used or seen on low-end eastern imports which seem to be copies of the better instruments but not necessarily having the same beneficial effect.)
Non-plastic key covers. Sometimes you can specify mammoth ivory or one of the several very good ivory substitutes.
